A Bit of Beijing (rc)

Taking the night train from Hefei was definitely the way to arrive in Beijing rested. Although maneuvering our way through the train station and on to our hotel was a feat in itself, we were ready to take on this city of 15 million. Depositing our bags in our clean, comfortable, air-conditioned room, a complete contrast to our boat trip accomodations of two weeks ago, we gave each other a smile, grabbed our phrase book and pocket dictionary and headed out. Our plans for the next four days were many so we caught a taxi and after a bit of talking, and eventually having to resort to our guide book, we were on our way to Tiananmen Square.


The Chairman Mao Memorial Hall is a fairly unremarkable bulding right in the middle of the Square.



His body has been preserved in a crystal coffin and is raised from a freezer each morning enabling thousands to pass by in a never-ending procession. Quite a bit of pomp for a man who requested cremation!

Just a few steps north and we were at the entrance to the Forbidden City. The walkways and courtyards here went on and on and on. We were looking at a sea of buildings to which there was no end. With 800 buildings and some 9000 chambers, it literally spanned several blocks. There was no way we were going to see it all in just a day or two.







For over 500 years ordinary Chinese people weren't allowed to approach the outside walls. What a far cry from today's throngs of tourists with their cameras and cell phones.

Designed to create a balance and feeling of harmony, it was heavily decorated with dragons symbolizing imperial power and cranes and turtles for longevity of reign.



Since the reign lasted 500 years maybe there was something to that! The entire place speaks to excess from the buildings and courtyards to the elaborate detail you witness at every turn.






Moving down the walkways and sitting on a comfortable shady perch, we had time just to look around and try to imagine what it was like at its peak. An entire city within a city without anyone from the outside allowed in or even to approach is beyond me. I struggle to get beyond the extravagant lifestyle of the emperor so even when I have the time to sit and imagine, I can't!



A walk down an outdoor touristy market on Liulichang Lu found us bargaining with an occasional shopkeeper for a souvenir we liked and knew was overpriced.



I like the bargaining more for the interaction it forces between me and the seller than actually trying to lower the price. Some prices are ridiculously high and this becomes painfully obvious when you begin to walk away and they call you back handing you a calculator and telling you to name your price. With my new command of the numbers I now try it without the calculator and offer them just half of their asking price. They appear pained, in a good natured way, and say that's no good for them. A few more tries and maybe another exit on my part followed by a call back and the deal is set. They've still made a profit, I have my souvenir and we've had a good time. Enough bargaining, the hutongs were waiting!









The local neighborhoods, hutongs, held us captive for a good two hours. Every turn of the head gave a fabulous and at the same time limited glimpse into the real life here. The streets, resembling more a wide sidewalk than a road, wove an intricate web through multiple blocks making it difficult to retrace our steps. Doorways led to walkways soon lost to our eyes by curves leading to places belonging to those who lived there.



Both inviting and private, they added to the intrigue. Passing neighbors visiting with each other on stools in the street and young kids playing, we exchanged greetings and moved on.

Multiple potted plants arranged 3-4 high adorned the fronts of many homes while squash plants grew on and hung from the rooftops of others.







Often several bikes could be spotted in the walkways leaning against the walls. Their rusty frames, broken or sometimes completely springless seats and dented fenders waiting to join the busy streets with other bikes in equivalent condition. It was picturesque and made me feel like there were many stories to be told.

Never crowded nor lacking for action, it was easy to come upon people honking their bike horns while snaking around whatever obstacle they may encounter be it fellow cyclists, walkers, workers or kids playing. It was all very calm yet obvious everyone had a purpose. But even with the honking it felt like there was an element of respect that seems to be lacking once you leave the hutongs behind. Spending a few hours walking through the hutongs should be at the top of every tourists list of "must do's" in China. It was without a doubt one of the more interesting days for me so far.